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by Igor » Fri, 16 Jul 2010 6:42 +0000
Went to work this morning fine as usual. Coming back, turned the car on and I can't put in the first gear. Just won't get in, any other too. Tried few clutch press release and somehow it went in and with great difficulty into the second. In short, I had great problems putting in the first or second gear. Somehow I would manage after repeated clutch press/release. It went once or twice into the second with a clang and after that would be much better. Once in the gear, any, it would drive completely normal with no strange noises. So, I drove slowly for few miles in third gear and later no problem with other gears but only with the second and first. A bit more of driving and the second is less of a problem, only the first. When arrived home, parked the car and tried with the engine off and again all gear changes as smooth as normal. Turned the engine on/off few times with gear changes (while parked) and works fine, for now.
Now, which former owner's problem I just discovered, gear box or clutch? The car is '98 1.8 iS mk2, otherwise drives great. And only next week I'm about to book timing belt change (first time). Huh.
Thanks
Igor
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by Igor » Fri, 16 Jul 2010 9:02 +0000
Just tried again. When the car is off, the gears change smoothly, when it's on no way. Also, the clutch pedal has become softer, not as much resistance on it.
So, where to look?
Thanks!
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by Steve » Fri, 16 Jul 2010 11:47 +0000
check the slave cylinder, pull back the rubber bit and see if there is fluid, if there is, replace or rebuild.
Steve
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by Igor » Sat, 17 Jul 2010 1:58 +0000
Judging from what I read about it I had all the symptoms such as squeaky clutch. Here I found a good howto: http://www.miata.net/garage/slavecyl.html Will try it in the morning. Feel better now  Thanks Steve!
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by leamyj » Sat, 17 Jul 2010 7:29 +0000
Rest assured Igor, there are very few scenarios with the mx5 that someone here hasn't come across at some stage..keep the faith and don't panic!!
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by Igor » Sat, 17 Jul 2010 12:53 +0000
Thank John! Yeah, just managed to get between two showers to check the fluid tank. It's empty, loads of air in there. So, as soon I get convinced I will have a half an hour between two showers will get the wheel off and check the rubber boot for the leakage. So, it's gonna be a new slave cylinder as I've seen they cost just a bit more than the rebuild kit. Ah, well, my first project on the car  After 4-5 months of having the 5 I'd say enough with the introduction and get to know it a bit better, glad it wasn't anything worse. Have to get a marquee as well 
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by Igor » Sat, 17 Jul 2010 3:53 +0000
Yeah, the slave cylinder's rubber boot is full of oil, just pressing it makes the oil leak out of it and the cylinder is greasy as well. So, that needs a replacement. For now I topped up the tank with oil, pumped the pedal for about half a minute and the clutch is back again ok so I can drive while waiting for the replacement cylinder. Doesn't look like anything difficult to change (with the right tools, got the part on flare wrench for the hydraulic line) once I figure out how to get to it, seems not very easy to access it.
A lesson learned is to always open the cap of any small tanks tucked away in a dark corner as the dirt collects on the walls inside and gives a wrong impression that there's something inside.
Also, went to the local motor factors and they have there a small rubber hose with what looks like a small vent at one end (just a bit of metal sticks out) bleeding air out of the lines. Did anyone have experience with this for a one-man air bleeding job? The guy in the shop didn't know how well it works.
I was looking at those speedbleeder valves on the web as well but found people praising them and also saying they don't work too (thread doesn't fit, let's air back in the system etc.). Anyone tried those?
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by Steve » Sat, 17 Jul 2010 7:56 +0000
These are great :  When doing the slave, undo the bottom bolt with a ring spanner from below rather than trying to get a socket to fit from the side (its a tight fit and the bolt rounded easy enough). The top one is easy with some extensions. Cheers, Steve
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by Igor » Mon, 19 Jul 2010 12:59 +0000
There's a plate cover below which I'll may need to remove too. Have to see how can I raise the car and get under. Have two jacks, now my neighbour is doing an extension in his house, hopefuly he'll have some blocks left to put under as well to secure it.
New cylinder on its way and I ordered the bleeding kit too. Thanks for help!
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by Steve » Mon, 19 Jul 2010 4:34 +0000
Hi Igor, Cool. Maybe don't use blocks to prop the car though.. have a read of this : http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/multi/woodblock.htmCheers, Steve
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by mustbesideways » Fri, 23 Jul 2010 12:13 +0000
hi igor sounds like the same problem i had ended up having to get a new clutch.hope it doesn't happen to you.counldn't get gear when engine was running but fine when turned off. parts of the clutch broke of and got wedged between the release bearing and the press plate so maybe this counld be a warning sign
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by JPW » Fri, 27 Aug 2010 9:52 +0000
Just did this on my Mk1. Handy job I must say. Flare nut spanner indispensable for the union nut.
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by Igor » Thu, 28 Oct 2010 1:18 +0000
Thanks for the advices guys. I've been away a bit so my late reply. Fortunately it was only a worn out rubber boot on the slave clutch cylinder and empty oil reservoir so air got inside the lines, just filling it up with the oil already fixed the problem and the gears were changing smoothly. I got a new cylinder from mx5parts and since I was at 60K and was changing the timing belt just asked the mechanic to replace the cylinder as well since he was at it, otherwise I was looking at doing it. Running smoothly since then. 
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