Timing Light

[fabfiveferg]

Good idea is right!!!!!

Watch if your light has timing advance features as the 5 employs a lost spark ignition system so your advance dial will read double the actual timing if if dial it back to zero degrees.

yeah I was thinking that

[Steve]

Dude... pop off the cam cover and turn the crank round with a socket so the cam marks (E and I) line up with the arrows (you'll see what I mean).
Then could the number of cambelt teeth between the top of each cam sprocket(there should be 19).

Found a pic, note the notch, on the edge of the righthand pulley near the "I", is pointing to the raised bit on the casting of the head. Same for the other side but backwards You can also see the 19 teeth between the top 2 notches :

http://i65.photobucket.com%5Calbums%5Ch ... 00631.jpg/

Steve

[fabfiveferg]

Links not working for me Steve

[Steve]

b@lls .. me neither now..

[Steve]

different pic but same thing...

[fabfiveferg]

Cheers Steve. Hoping it will stay dry tomorrow so I can get a look at that.

There's nothing I should be worried about with the cam cover is there. No need to torque the nuts down or anything? I could have put that better. Apologies to anyone sitting uncomfortably now

[Steve]

No, def don't torque down the camcover bolts.. just slightly more than hand tight will do them (I still have a broken one I need to extract).

Just remove the chrome bolts, pull off the 2 vent tubes, remove the 2 coilpack bolts and it should lift off. Your gasket should be new so you can reuse.

[ger]

I took a look at fergals car last week.

the timing was a 2 degrees, when i tried to advance it i could only get it to 12 max CAS adjustment.

First impression was the timing belt was a tooth out after the belt change.
But his BIPES timing controller did not seem to be functioning properly either, it was showing a lot of timing retard at tick over (10 degrees +), should only be doing this under heavy load.

Fergal you should do as i suggested and disconnect the BIPES CAS wire at the ECU and remake the original connection, then check the timing. If the timing has not advanced check the pulleys.

On my car (and in the rod grainger manual) the intake pulley does not line up to vertical it sits slightly off tho the left when the cams are released, If the mechanic lined it up exactly vertical or slightly to the right it could easily be off a tooth.
When i brought the timing from 2-12 it gave better intake timing but your exhaust cam may be way out. I'm not sure if you took any notice of your boost gauge readings at tick over, if the vacuum reading is significantly lower it would suggest the exhaust cam.

If the pulleys are correct and the bipes is working then you need to test the CAS.

[fabfiveferg]

I have tomorrow penciled in for that. Got my timing light today so will do some fishing and see what i can find

Bipes is behaving totallly different now. more like you described. Hope it's not the timing brelt off. mechanic that did it is a proud fecker and bound to invent some way that i managed to move it on a tooth

Anyhow. I'lll let you knoe what i find

Cheers

[sidewaysreilly]

if he set up the belt correctly, the car should run ok if nothing else was touched,